Some horses find it easier to make a smooth transition into canter from the walk rather than the trot. If you have a horse like this, it's ok to practice mostly walk to canter transitions at home for a while (even though lower level horses always go from trot to canter in the Dressage tests.) With repetition of quality walk to canter transitions, the horse will become stronger and better balanced in both walk to canter and trot to canter.
What are some good rider exercises to fix keeping your body too close to the horse in the air over fences? (Anne)
Hi Anne!
That is so common, isn't it?? So many riders seem to be jumping much bigger fences than their horses are jumping. ;) And riders doing too much with their upper body can definitely negatively effect the horse's balance over fences. Especially with the horse who doesn't have a great natural balance over fences. I do have a few tricks for this problem! (Click on Question Title above to read full answer)
"I often tell my students that the outside rein is like the vinyl wall of an above-ground pool; elastic, stretchy and flexible, but enough of a boundary to keep the 'water in the pool.'" ~ Elise Vandover
"A horse which doesn’t relax the mandibular and the tongue muscles cannot be entirely relaxed. That is why it is so important that the horse accepts the bit, and the sign of that is the actively and relaxed chewing." ~ Christian Thiess
"The better my dressage transitions are, the better the thoroughness, it means the horse can go from very fast, to very balanced and collected on the hindquarters, energy from behind, through – no argument with the bit – because the transition is through and fine, the horse can focus on the jump." ~ Ingrid Klimke
From Facebook fan Joan Dunlap ~ "You must conquer your own fears, lack of knowledge and short-comings before you can even start to help your horse with theirs."
It takes an experienced instructor to know whether a rider who has lost their confidence needs to move back to smaller jumps and more simple exercises, or if that rider instead needs to be shown the exact techniques that are going to fix their problem, and then pushed hard, so they can see how easily they really CAN do it.
"Do your warm up trot sets with shorter stirrups in a two point instead of posting. If you listen closely, you can hear me laughing… most of us cannot trot in two point for three five minute sets, much less stay there for our conditioning sets. Even though you will probably fail, stick with it. Make a project of your fitness while you condition your horse." ~ Jimmy Wofford
While the distance in between the jumps is a big deciding factor in the speed and length of stride that you should approach with... generally approaching a combination or complex off of a shorter, bouncier stride will give you more options.
I have a young horse that likes to drop to trot right before fences. She is quite brilliant otherwise, but that little glitch just doesn’t seem to be going away with more experience, grids or placing poles. ideas? (Anne)
Hi Anne!
I have come across several horses with this problem over the years! And there are a number of different issues that can cause this. Here is a list of things that can cause horses to break from canter to the trot right in front of fences. See if any of these might sound familiar to you: (Click on Question Title above to read full answer)
Many riders think too much about stopping in downward transitions... meaning they won't be truly riding forward. This will likely cause the horse to brace against the hand, and/or to lose the activity of the hind legs. Instead, try thinking of changing gears without losing any of the energy and activity in the hind legs.
To help keep your horse uphill when spiraling in on a circle, imagine that you are going up a spiral staircase. With each stride inward on the spiral, grow taller and think about going up an imaginary step.
I don't remember the first time I met you, but I am so glad that I did.
I have hundreds of pictures of me, as a little girl, hugging you tight and smiling from ear to ear and genuinely from my eyes.
You have been in my life from the beginning. You have been my guide, my mentor, and my longest friend... (Click on Blog Title above to read full entry)
Always keep in mind that you need to engage your horse's brain to get him to truly think forward. Your goal should not be to merely get his feet moving, but to ignite the area of his brain that makes him decide to want to move forward. Only when your horse really wants to go forward do you truly have a forward horse... no matter how fast you are actually traveling.
Eventers need to make sure that the saddle that they use for cross country is truly suitable. The flap needs to be forward enough to give you room to easily push your feet out in front of you for security whenever necessary (such as galloping downhill, drop into water, deep mud on a downhill landing, etc.)
If you are riding any transition on a curve, do not forget to maintain your inside bend and flexion throughout the transition. This will help you to keep the horse straight (aligned to the curve), balanced, and connected.
When your horse is not being as responsive as you'd like, pushing harder is never the answer. In fact, that only makes the problem worse. Instead, go back a step and remind/re-educate your horse about being hot to the leg aids.
Many horses actually like and do well with a little bit of rein contact throughout the jumping effort. But there are some that are so sensitive, that any amount of feel of their mouth at the top of the jumping arc will cause them to either jump with their nose tucked to their chest, or try to fight the rider’s hand in the air. Both of which will ruin the quality of the horse’s jump.
"I do a lot of cavaletti work also with my dressage horses because then I can really make them active behind, over the back, stretching into your hand, and really supple in the back." ~ Ingrid Klimke
The more spirit the horse has, the more difficult he may be to train. But once you have developed a good partnership with the horse, this same spirit will make him a tremendous competitor, who will fight for you when the chips are down.
Pay attention to exactly how you release your aid after your horse responds. The key is to relax and release the aid in a smooth and subtle manner, with finesse.
To get the very best out of every horse when show jumping, riders need to really think about the specific way that each individual horse needs and wants to be ridden between the fences. For example, some horses like a contact with the reins all the way up until the point of takeoff at a jump. It gives them confidence, and they feel more connected to their riders. Other horses prefer to have soft or even slightly loose reins in the last strides of the approach.
If you don't know which way your horse would go best, or you pick the wrong way.... (maybe because you've had success with it on other horses), the quality of your jumping may suffer. Let me help you to figure out what kind of horse you have! (Click on Article Title above to read full article)
From Facebook fan Deena Cahill ~ "If your horse is really tense when riding him, try riding while having a short conversation about happy things with someone else. You will be surprised how relaxed your horse becomes when your body naturally relaxes!"
"Look for a genuine coach with real coaching skills rather than a rider who may know how to do something, but not how to teach it. Also, find someone who has solid experience of working with riders of your level." ~ William Micklem
"The hind legs are brought far enough underneath the center of gravity by the rider’s legs, where they are gradually burdened with more of the combined weight of horse and rider for brief moments, which flexes their joints more. Like coiled springs, they push off with much greater elasticity afterwards than unflexed hind legs. This energetic, springy forward swinging creates a very characteristic feeling in the seat (you feel the work of the hind legs as well as the swinging of the back that it creates very clearly, yet pleasantly), which is typical for a gait with impulsion, and which signals to the experienced rider: „Now he is moving!“ He despises, on the other hand, a wishy-washy, unclear trot feeling under the saddle which is caused by dragging hind legs that hardly push off and consequently don’t make the back swing – whereas others seem to love it. De gustibus … No, this is not a matter of taste. One is correct, the other one is wrong! Thrust may be there naturally, but impulsion must be worked out - or better: into – the horse by cultivating the thrust." ~ Alfred Knopfhart
"Before starting the work of teaching the flying changes, the quality of the canter should be well established. The horse should be thinking forward, should accept the slowing and collecting aids and should be laterally submissive. The horse should be straight in the canter." ~ Chris Bartle
"The most repeated mistake is the riders' weight taking off before the horse and often with catastrophic results - The rider that learns to look after the Engine, Line and Balance of his horse on the Approach and allows his horse to make the decisions about where he takes off, repeatedly puts in a smooth and confident performance." ~ Lucinda Green
"It worries me when riders 'clinic hop' or switch from trainer to trainer in search of the magic bullet for making everything go well. Correct training is a three way relationship between a horse, a student, and a trainer, and students have to take some responsibility for their own growth and learning. You can be passively lectured or you can be an accountable student who listens, interacts with her instructor and finds homework to do between lessons." ~ Jane Savoie
"The quality of the flying changes is reflected in the expression, the length of the change, the straightness and the quality of the canter before and after the change. When we talk of changes having expression, we mean that during the stride of the canter in which the change is executed, the canter has a definite moment of suspension. This enables the horse to bring the new inside hind well under the body and to reach out with the foreleg. Expression should not be confused with tension." ~ Chris Bartle
"This might sound too simple, but I am convinced that the most important factor in keeping the horse's will to work day by day is allowing him to live a life as close to nature as possible." ~ Uta Gräf
"It is most important to realize that the topline is not one muscle from the ears to the hocks. There are different muscles that you have to train – the neck, the wither, the back, the loins, the croup and the hock. The muscles of the hind legs are connected directly behind the horse’s ears, if the topline muscles are not trained, the hind legs cannot move correctly." ~ Johan Hamminga
Think of that girth tight against your horse's side… after a while he tunes that out and barely notices it. The same will happen with your legs if they are always tight and clamped on his sides.
